The Airport
I got to see it in two different modes. When I arrived on Thursday morning, the place was a madhouse. Absolutely filled with people. The baggage claim area was well-done, I thought, even if it did take a while for the luggage to show up. The taxi lines were long but well-managed. Those guys are serious about their job.
On the way home, when I had to spend five hours here, I saw a different airport. The vibe was low key. As the driver who drove us to the airport remarked, people leave Vegas different than they arrive–hungover and sometimes poorer, always quieter. I also discovered that there’s free WiFi and and outlets to power up. Thank you, LAS for being a passenger-friendly airport.
The Hotel
We stayed at The Venetian. It was completely over the top, very ornate with murals on the ceilings and lots of mirrors, marble, and gilt. It was beautiful, of course, but overwhelming. Definitely not how I would prefer to live on an every day basis–too much of everything, but that seems to be the theme of Vegas overall.
The Venice theme was everywhere, from the casino floor, to the muraled ballrooms in the meeting area, to the shops on the canal. Yes, an actual canal. It’s dyed that unreal water-blue. I know for sure that the canals in the real Venice are not that color–nor do they smell like a mixture of chlorine and bath products from one of the nearby shops. But you can get a gondola ride. And we took one. It’s about 15 minutes, and probably a rip off at $16 per person, but still our gondolier Pia was actually from Italy, and she sang “Volare” to us as we moved through the blue water.
The Venetian, unlike, say, The Bellagio, is not laid out on a grid, and the signage–in an effort, I can only guess, to keep it on theme–is not terribly legible, so it can be difficult and confusing to find where you want to go. It is also much dimmer than The Bellagio. And smellier. If I have a serious complaint about The Venetian, it’s the smell. Not just the smell of cigars and cigarettes and liquor and all kinds of food and lots of people. But the hotel pipes in this sickly sweet scent (my friend said it’s violets, but I don’t know) to help cover those other odors. No. And no again. It’s terrible. Awful. And it’s everywhere. There is some escape in your room (although they pump that same scent into the WC), thank god, but any time you are in the public areas, the smell is enough to make you nauseous.
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The room was very impressive, large and well-appointed, with a sunken living room area that included a sleeper-sofa. And I was happy to see that the decor in the room was contemporary and elegant but definitely scaled back. Only the bathroom edged toward ostentatious, and that’s usually true of most hotel bathrooms, so that was a relief. Speaking of the bathroom, the shampoo and soap provided were actually enjoyable–I even took the extras which I never do. The scent (bitter orange) reminded me of Constant Comment tea, one of my favorite drinks when the weather turns cooler.
The Weather
Speaking of the weather, Vegas did not deliver what I was expecting. And this is a good thing because I was expecting hot, hot, hot. Friday was sunny and 84. Saturday partly cloudy and 78. We were able to get some time in at the pool and actually enjoy it, even in the sun. It made all of us want to escape the overwhelming and constant smells of the casino and get some fresh air. I heard it was 110 last weekend. All I can do is thank the weather gods.
The Scenery
Las Vegas was also unexpectedly beautiful. I don’t mean The Strip, which is of course beautiful in that same way that Times Square is beautiful. Full of color and people and energy and an almost overpowering commercialism. It’s amazing, really, more than beautiful. Even one of the more actually beautiful things–the dancing fountains at The Bellagio–which are truly amazing, are ruined if you think about all that water in the middle of the desert. It’s obscene. Beautiful. But obscene. I almost felt guilty while watching it.
But what was unexpected about Las Vegas was the natural beauty. From the desert as you fly in, to the amazing sight of Lake Mead and Hoover Dam–awesome even from the plane. And rising sharply in the distance are the mountains, made more stark by the sheer flatness of Vegas. They seem close, as does everything really, because the air is so clear and the land is so flat that distance is hard to judge. I’m not really an outdoorsy person, and I find deserts frightening (visions of broken down vehicles and being stranded in the baking heat–I know, I watch too many movies), but even I wanted to explore this other side of Vegas.
….
This is already long, so I’m going to do the food, the show, and the gambling in a follow-up post.








